Paninaro, the influential subculture that inspired 80’s Italian teens to dress head to toe in the latest European designer labels combined with classic American styling. It has always been difficult for us non Italian speakers to find exact details of the style so when we met Fabio recently who was an enthusiastic teen Paninaro in the 1980’s we knew we had to share his version of events and love for the style.
What is the history of Paninaro? How did it start?
It all started in the early 80s in Milan. The “Paninaro Culture and Style” evolved from AC Milan football hooligans back in those days. The hooligans changed their style from wearing tracksuit tops and trainers (copying their role model the English) to suntanned, good-looking and well dressed; and so their wardrobe to Armani, Timberland and bomber jackets, which they wore in reverse (the orange side) to go to football matches. The idea behind this change, was to deceive the police and blend in with the crowd without detection. They would meet up in front of a sandwich bar called “Al Panino” (translated. “at the sandwich’s”) in Piazza Liberty, often on Saturdays before football matches. Like so often in the history of subcultures, it was a journalist to appoint these guys “Paninari”, which means “sandwich enthusiasts/eaters“.
The younger “Paninari” got to like the style more than the football and they started to cultivate the idea to dress expensively, to have an impeccable appearance and create an image of success and prosperity. They developed their own visual language and they started adding new brands to their look to distinguish themselves from the rest, becoming the new generation of Italy’s subculture. The PANINARO as we know it was born. The meeting place changed to Piazza San Babila in front of Burghy, a fastfood restaurant similar to McDonald’s.
From that “birthplace” the Paninaro culture and style spread out to all of Italy and later some European countries. A comic called Paninaro and a magazine called Wild Boys appeared in every newsstand in Italy and the Pet Shop Boys made a song entitled Paninaro. The Paninaro’s time was from 83-89.
Were there rivalries between the original Paninari and the younger new comers?
In the early phase of the Paninaro, the Paninari were often organized in groups, with a “leader”, who was named “grangallo” (which means big cock, but meaning the animal). That was inherited from their hooligan origins. This “leader“ had two jobs, to always have the best impeccable look, so the others had to try hard to look better and organising the activities for the group.
After some time, there were different groups in different corners of Milano; the group in piazza San Babila, the group in piazza Duomo and so on. As one can imagine, some of the groups were in heavy competition amongst each other and were also fighting each other from time to time. In the later period of the Paninaro, when it was at it’s peak, there were a lot of these groups all over Italy, the fights stopped a little and the competition limited itself foremost to the style!
The Paninaro’s other antagonists from the beginning were the punks, the goths and the metallari (heavy metal listeners). Those fights never stopped but that’s another story.
How did you discover Paninaro style and at what age?
To begin with, I live in Switzerland and I was born in Switzerland from Italian parents. Going back to Italy for vacation at least twice a year I got infected with the Paninaro virus when I was 13/14-years-old. My stays in Italy nourished the desire to follow and to live that culture. I was buying the comic Paninaro and the magazine Wild Boys, taking them back to Switzerland and sharing them with a very small group of Paninari (all with Italian background) in my home town Basel.
What were the must have items of clothing to define yourself as Paninaro?
The one piece which distinguished a Paninaro in the very first days is probably the colourful Moncler down jacket. Then brands like Best Company, Burlington socks, El Charro, Stone Island, C.P. Company, Boneville, Timberland, Americanino, Henry Lloyd, Avirex, Ray-Ban sunglasses, Invicta backbags, Uniform, Schott, Millet, Nike, Levi’s, Naj Oleari (mostly for girls), Armani Jeans and Durango boots were essentials. Later the spectrum got bigger, brands like Lacoste, Vans, Converse All Star, Valentino, Les Copains, Trussardi, American System, By American, Chevignon, New Balance, Energie, early Diesel pieces, Mistral, Ocean Pacific or Paraboot shoes were added. Unfortunately nowadays, many of these brands only exist in hidden wardrobes or online shops like yours.
What were the main influences that defined the style?
Mainly the idea of being free (sky’s the limit), successful and wealthy which came over from the U.S. this nourished the image of the Paninaro. Pop music filled with fun, hope and colour, U.S. movies, like Top Gun, Rambo or Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, in which money is never a question, strength is limitless and everything always works out for the hero.
How long did the style last for?
By 1989 all Italian teenagers were Paninari. Like every subculture, as soon as it starts to become mainstream it dissolves, disappears and a new subculture replaces the old one. The very first Paninari, who were adults by that time, changed due to their lives and work. All big fashion houses started producing affordable collections. It was nothing special anymore to wear a Best Company jumper or Timberland, everybody else had the same, even the parents started wearing these brands. The next generation was forced to find a new way to distinguish themselves from the rest so the Paninaro culture and the style died in the early 90s. By the early 90s the Paninaro look was out and forgotten by the next generation. The love and memory of the true Paninari never extinguished though.
What labels and styles did people move on to after Paninaro?
During the last period, the very first Paninari, especially those from Milano, started adopting more and more high fashion brands like YSL, Louis Vuitton or Versace to distinguish themselves from the rest of Italy. Their claim was the heritage of what they had started. On the one hand wearing something not everybody could afford on the other hand dictating what style meant to be real. That lasted only for a short period. The young generation was influenced by new trends, one of those was techno music and so the fashion that came along with it; Australian tracksuit tops, Levi’s jeans and Nike shoes.
Why do you think it was so popular?
In the 80s Italy had come out of very stressful years, the 70’s were economically bad for many Italians and this decade was politically turbulent and unstable; bomb attacks by communist terrorists, many changes in the government, corruption, only to name some problems. In the 80s the economy changed to the better, you had more opportunities in life and the world seemed to be yours. This attitude was reflected in the music and movies. I guess the youth back then followed that stream and ended up in consuming, unconcerned with the future, having fun and hedonism. The U.S. was sending those vibes over. I guess those were the reasons which made a subculture like the Paninaro possible and why it became so popular.
Did the style crossover into many other countries?
Frankly I don’t know. What I know is that some cities in Switzerland, mainly the Italian speaking ones, had Paninari groups. In my town, which is the farthest from the Italian border, we were 8 pals following and cultivating the Paninaro culture and style. Those into Paninaro culture and style had Italian backgrounds for sure. I guess there were other groups in other countries but since they never appeared in any Paninaro comic nor Wild Boys magazine (those are the main references and historical proof of the Panianro culture and style), there’s no record of it. I know that Germany had a similar subculture which was called “Poppers“, derived from Pop music, before you imagine anything else less wholesome. Funnily enough, the Poppers had a similar brand code, were also influenced by pop music and the U.S. image of life. Amongst Poppers’ brands you could find were Best Company, Nike, Levi’s, Avirex or Chevignon. Brands one still finds a lot of on the second hand market in Germany. To be honest I have no idea if the Poppers had noticed or had been influenced by the Paninari. What I know for sure is that the Paninari didn’t know anything about the Poppers. Shockingly enough only very few knew that there were Paninari outside from Italy. That’s a sign of that time, innit?
Has there been a resurgence of interest in the style recently?
Yes, absolutely. The youth have rediscovered the fashion bits of the 80s lately. Suddenly a Helly Hansen jacket, a vintage Nike Air Max, a timeless Stone Island Marina t-shirt or even a Best Company jumper reappears on the screen. I guess some of the Paninari got reminded of their roots and caught back being what they were from beginning, PANINARO!!
What is the story behind the recent Paninaro meet ups in Milan?
The current fashion trends have revived the love and the memory of being a Paninaro so many Paninari started reconnecting through Facebook and in 2012 they organized the first reunion in Milano, they documented it and sent it out to all of Italy. That call woke up many Paninari so today we’re back again, looking good of course, older but still splendidly vivid!
For all Paninari who haven’t heard yet that we’re still standing and those who want to join the two annual meetings in Milano (May and November/December) get in touch!
Thanks Fabio!
You can follow Fabio’s Paninaro archive on his instagram account: @panozzch
Portrait photography: Jake Ranford
Interview: Ollie Evans.
